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GeraldK
7/5/2016 6:05 PM
Hello,
I wanted to introduce myself as a new forum member. I’m Gerald from Calgary, AB. I recently took possession of my fathers 1969 300SEL 6.3. He purchased the car about 30 years ago. The whole time that he owned the car he never drove it and it has been garage stored. The engine probably hasn’t been run in over 10 years.

To my knowledge it was a European (Switzerland) delivery car and eventually ended up in Canada. The VIN is 109 018 12 000795, which I believe makes it a pretty early model.

I’ve had a chance to browse the forum over the past few weeks and gain some insight on steps to take in order to get the car back on the road. I’ve already had the fuel tank removed and boiled out and have purchased all new rubber fuel hoses and a fuel filter.
I currently have the long body style fuel pump apart and attempting to rebuild it. The pump was not turning due to the 30+ year old fuel in it.

Next steps planned were to flush the steel fuel lines and install the new rubber lines. Not sure if anyone has some tips on replacing the lines to and from the fuel filter. Access seems fairly difficult.

I was also planning on removing the fuel injectors in order to test and flush them out. However I can’t seem to get the lines to loosen at the injector and the injection pump. I’ve been spraying the ends with penetrating oil for the past week but still no success. Any tips on getting these removed?

The body has some rust issues which seem common on these cars. Rust areas are the rocker panels, spare tire well and behind the headlights. Doors, hood, trunk, roof and underneath of car are in pretty good condition. Other visible issue is some oil accumulation underneath the injection pump and the front suspension has an audible leak.

Finally a quick thank you to Ali and Francis for helping to sort out a forum sign up issue I was experiencing.


Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
daantjie
7/5/2016 6:41 PM
Hey Gerald! Welcome from Vancouver BC! We Canucks are few and far between on the forum.
Good luck you will find tons of help here.
Cheers

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC
Art Love
7/5/2016 7:36 PM
I believe that the only way that you will be able to replace the fuel filter hoses is to take the radiator out. Even changing the fuel filter is a pain in these cars because the engine was not designed to go in the body.

Access to the fuel injector lines is also difficult. It is hard to get any purchase. Even taking the tappet [rocker] covers off to get more room involves unbolting add ons at the front of them, but it may be necessary to give you a bit more leverage room. I have the same problems with #2509 which has not run since 1988 or so. Even getting the spark plugs out without breaking them is an issue. I sometimes use a length of pipe to put over the spanner I am using to give me more length if there is room. I don't have the strength in my hands to do things that my mechanics do on a regular basis. A crows foot spanner attached to a socket wrench with an extension like my piece of pipe is another option.

Good luck,
Art
daantjie
7/5/2016 8:01 PM
Sounds like you have a clearance as well as a tightness issue. I have no experience with the 6.3 specifically, but a common trick which sometimes works is to try and tighten the connection slightly, before you try and loosen. Sometimes just this slight movement in the opposite direction will work. I also like to use localized heat but for obvious reasons you don't want to bring a flame to your fuel system[xx(]

Also, what penetrant are you using? WD40 is garbage IMHO. Get some PB Blaster, Canadian Tire stocks it, way better than any other penetrant on the market.
Good luck

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC
GeraldK
7/5/2016 9:21 PM
quote:
Originally posted by daantjie

Hey Gerald! Welcome from Vancouver BC! We Canucks are few and far between on the forum.
Good luck you will find tons of help here.
Cheers

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC


I can imagine there aren't too many Canucks on here. I don't believe I've seen another 6.3 in Calgary or too many 6.9s.

quote:
Originally posted by Art Love

I believe that the only way that you will be able to replace the fuel filter hoses is to take the radiator out. Even changing the fuel filter is a pain in these cars because the engine was not designed to go in the body.

Access to the fuel injector lines is also difficult. It is hard to get any purchase. Even taking the tappet [rocker] covers off to get more room involves unbolting add ons at the front of them, but it may be necessary to give you a bit more leverage room. I have the same problems with #2509 which has not run since 1988 or so. Even getting the spark plugs out without breaking them is an issue. I sometimes use a length of pipe to put over the spanner I am using to give me more length if there is room. I don't have the strength in my hands to do things that my mechanics do on a regular basis. A crows foot spanner attached to a socket wrench with an extension like my piece of pipe is another option.

Good luck,
Art


Clearance isn't too much of an issue. As you mentioned I've already removed the valve covers and the associated bolt ons. I also have the special MB offset socket to get at the injection lines. I think I will just keep spraying with the penetrating oil and have some patience with it. No need to rush through this.

Also removing the radiator was probably something I wanted to do anyways so I might just hold off until then.

quote:
Originally posted by daantjie

ounds like you have a clearance as well as a tightness issue. I have no experience with the 6.3 specifically, but a common trick which sometimes works is to try and tighten the connection slightly, before you try and loosen. Sometimes just this slight movement in the opposite direction will work. I also like to use localized heat but for obvious reasons you don't want to bring a flame to your fuel system

Also, what penetrant are you using? WD40 is garbage IMHO. Get some PB Blaster, Canadian Tire stocks it, way better than any other penetrant on the market.
Good luck


Definitely using PB Blaster for any stubborn hardware. Will try the trick of giving it a tighten. Using some heat from a heat gun was something I was also considering. Should not create more heat than the engine would normally give off.

Thanks so far for the replies.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
paul-NL
7/6/2016 1:39 AM

Could I recieve some pictures for our registery ??
GeraldK
7/6/2016 10:25 AM
quote:
Originally posted by paul-NL


Could I recieve some pictures for our registery ??


I was going to post a couple pictures in this thread over the next couple of days. The car is up on blocks with the wheels and front brakes removed. Are there specific pictures that you would want? Is posting them in the thread ok or would you like some sent directly to yourself?

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
paul-NL
7/6/2016 10:32 AM

If possible I would like them send to me , because the seize you can post here is very low.
hughc
7/7/2016 10:25 PM
Dear Gerald K

Welcome from a far easterner in Nova Scotia !!!!
Hugh Creighton Halifax

1970 and 1971 300 SEL 6.3 and 1965 600 SWB
GeraldK
7/8/2016 5:32 PM


























Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
daantjie
7/8/2016 7:57 PM
Very nice indeed[:D]
Almost ready to go and scare some Corvette posers [8D]

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC
Ron B
7/9/2016 7:43 PM
[:)][:)][:)]

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
daantjie
7/11/2016 11:54 PM
Gerald are you having too much fun at the Stampede and not spending much needed quality time with your new baby[:D]?

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC
GeraldK
7/12/2016 12:01 AM
How did you guess?? At a company event at this very moment. Enjoying drinks and food at the chuck wagon races and grandstand show

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
GeraldK
7/15/2016 4:21 PM
Short update on my progress with the car. I'm ready for re-assembly of the fuel pump. Had 2 new bearings installed on the shaft of the pump. Will do the re-assembly tomorrow and hopefully there won't be any leaks.

The injections lines are finally coming lose. I've got 6 of 8 lose at the injectors and 1 of 8 at the injection pump.

This weekend might also start removal of the radiator and possibly the air compressor and power steering reservoir. The plan is to replace any flexible fuel lines and cooling system hoses.

Is there anything to be aware of in removing the air compressor or any other items? Appears to be a straightforward unbolting procedure.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
Art Love
7/15/2016 7:40 PM
Yes,
Unless you have a very good reason, do not try to pull the double pulley off the air compressor. Do not apply any force to the outer edge of this pulley. It is cast and easily cracked. Take lots of photos as you go. Make notes of how things came apart. It is amazing how, when you go to put things back together, you find a part that can go on one way or another, and you haven't a clue which is right. Catalogue everything and keep the nuts and bolts, washers etc in small plastic bags with labels. If there are two washers on a shaft, note which is which. There should be a support bracket on the power steering pump. It is not immediately apparent from the front. The oil feed to the air compressor sump is via a hole in the bottom with a ring seal on a slotted hole in the support bracket. The adjustor screw for the belts allows that feed to slide. That is all that comes immediately to mind.
Art

P.S. Be aware that the automatic transmission cooler is in the bottom of the radiator, and its hoses have to be disconnected to remove the radiator as well as the usual oil cooler and water hoses. Elevating and covering the ends of the ATF hoses is all that is necessary to protect the transmission.
GeraldK
7/16/2016 10:14 PM
Thanks for the tips Art.

I didn't get around to removing the radiator, compressor or power steering reservoir today. I did finally have success in removing the injection lines. Also got my fuel pump re-assembled but have done a leak test on it.

Tomorrow will attempt to get the injectors removed.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
Ron B
7/19/2016 3:55 AM
quote:
Originally posted by GeraldK

Short update on my progress with the car. I'm ready for re-assembly of the fuel pump. Had 2 new bearings installed on the shaft of the pump. Will do the re-assembly tomorrow and hopefully there won't be any leaks.

The injections lines are finally coming lose. I've got 6 of 8 lose at the injectors and 1 of 8 at the injection pump.

This weekend might also start removal of the radiator and possibly the air compressor and power steering reservoir. The plan is to replace any flexible fuel lines and cooling system hoses.

Is there anything to be aware of in removing the air compressor or any other items? Appears to be a straightforward unbolting procedure.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
make sure you replace the oil flex line from the filter to the cooler and the Compressor oil line. Both will fail with old age and usually when you are miles from home . Replace the seal between the Compressor and power steer pump. Even on the W112's Mercedes recommend doing this every so often to prevent engine oil getting into the power steering. There is an O ring between the compressor and it's base. It is supposed to be a sqaure section O ring so the compressor slides over it when adjusting the belts , rather than letting it roll causing an oil leak. Be careful of the aluminium black on the adjustor bolt , it's a crap design and many are stripped. if you have trouble reaching the adjustor, check the engine mounts. When they sag the engine sits low and things like that are hard to reach . Between the bracket and the power steer pump should be a pair of tube spacers, they go against the pump,not on the outside of the bracket even though it is easier to fit them there. The pump can leak if they are in the wrong place. [:)]

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
mpmorris
7/21/2016 2:58 PM
Ron --I can't tell you how many times I've seen those spacers on the outside of the steering pump bracket --I finally concluded they were installed that way so they wouldn't get lost[:0]
GeraldK
7/26/2016 12:27 AM
Over the last week I got all the injectors removed. Put them on a pop tester and none of them were stuck. All seemed to be operating at the correct pressure and had a pretty good atomization.

Also got the radiator removed. I've already contacted the classic center for replacement hoses and oil lines. There seems to be 2 part numbers for the line feeding the top of the cooler. One is over $800 US while the other is about $120 US. Looking at the picture they sent me I believe the cheaper one is the one I need. Anyone have the correct part number? I don't believe I know the motor number.

Reading some previous threads on the forum I've seen the recommendation to replace the 2 cooling elbows feeding the front left and right heads.

Finally I removed the air compressor. I believe that o ring was leaking based on the amount of sludge build up underneath it.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
Hendrik
7/27/2016 8:02 AM
here´s a pic of the numbers




Hendrik
7/27/2016 8:06 AM
I see that the pic is not that clear - the motor-# is on the top end of the engine next to passenger cabin
1960mog
7/29/2016 1:21 PM
Hi

$800 for a oil cooler line?
On the 6.3 I am working on, the hose in the oil cooler line can be replaced.
Here is a pic of the setup.



If you have the same setup, just unscrew the hose from the metal line and replace it with 1/2' oil cooler hose from the auto parts store.

78 6.9 #4084
79 6.9 #6669
Ron B
7/31/2016 7:00 AM
yep! always reuse those fittings and never let a hose repair place near them unless they know what they are .I have seen plenty of butchered fittings cut up to remove them .And if you can use metric hoses although they are damned hard to find outside Germany [:D]

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
GeraldK
7/31/2016 9:56 AM
It does look I have those fittings. I will hopefully try removing them in the next few days. I have some clean up to do first as there's a bit of oil build up in the area.



Does the o-ring between the power steering reservoir and the pump tend to fail? There was a fair bit of oil build up there as you can see in the picture. I already plan to replace the other two o-rings that were previously mentioned.



Also had both issues with the spacers mounted on the wrong side of the power steering pump bracket and the aluminum block being stripped. I re tapped the block but one of the bolts doesn't grab much thread. Do you usually replace with another aluminum block or are there other options?

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
1960mog
7/31/2016 10:35 AM
Repair the thread with TimeSert. I use it for all my thread repair, because it is a solid bushing insert, not a lose coil of wire like Helicoil.
Or you can make a new block, it's just aluminum.

78 6.9 #4084
79 6.9 #6669
AgSilver
7/31/2016 12:45 PM
There is a specialty company in the West Palm Beach area that can do it all and they stock metric sizes. http://makohose.com/


300SEL 6.3
E55 AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT
GeraldK
8/7/2016 11:01 PM
Making slow progress with the car. I've been working towards getting the injection pump removed. I've managed to get the left (in the direction of travel) intake manifold removed. Now I've got a couple of questions regarding removing the pump itself.

How do you go about actual removal of the pump? I see 4 nuts at the front of the pump which I've managed to get loose. The rear appears to be fastened down with 2 hex head bolts. Is this a 5mm head? It seems the pump has been removed previously and these bolts are rounded off.

I also read that it's a good idea to remove the pump at the 60 degree mark indicated at the crankshaft in order to see if the pump was properly timed. How exactly can you see this?



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
james lawson
8/8/2016 12:50 AM
I believe the pump is supposed to be secured with two allen bolts, at least the ones I have seen.
The 60 degree mark is on the crankshaft pulley, you have to mark it with some paint or chalk to see it very well. I marked it from under the car. Then you line it up on the pointer just like you would for TDC by rotating the crank. With the plugs removed you can put a good 19mm wrench on the air compressor nut, or if everything is out of the way use the crankshaft nut.
You have to be very careful not to bend any of the pipes.
The nuts are 13mm.
Make sure to replace the return fuel hose behind the pump. These collapse and cause all sorts of fun.
There is a removable metal collar on the splined shaft of the pump, be careful with it. it just slides off. I don't know if it is possible for it to fall into the engine. You align the timing marks on the pump and then slide the collar on when you reinstall the pump.
There is a gasket and some sort of fiber spacer where the pump joins the block. The spacer sometimes crumbles.
Hope this helps

jim
Art Love
8/8/2016 8:09 AM
Why are you taking the fuel injection pump off? You are correct regarding having the timing absolutely correct. But there must be a reason to remove the pump in the first place. These pumps are incredibly durable, so, unless you know that it has a problem, I would suggest you leave it alone until you know it is faulty and concentrate on replacing hoses, fluids and other components that deteriorate with age.

The pleasure of the car is in driving it. If you pull it to bits, that will not happen. Keep it as intact as you can and get it running, otherwise you will spend a fortune and become disillusioned with a non functioning car in pieces. If you have a good reason to remove the pump, then so be it, but let us know what it is and we will try to assist.
Art
GeraldK
8/8/2016 9:20 AM
The pump is the last component that I planned to pull off the car. I'm fairly certain that the pump is leaking from one of the seals as there is a fair amount of oil underneath the pump. Also with the pump having been sitting idle for 15 years I figured I might as well just remove it and have it serviced.

I'm a little skeptical on the quality of the work that was done when the pump was previously removed. One of the four nuts at the front of the pump was not tight at all and the one Allen bolts seems to be rounded off inside.

With that said the plan is to replace all the components that Art mentioned. I've got all the fuel lines already including the one at the rear of the engine. This week I will have new radiator hoses, belts, transmission oil cooler lines and some o-rings for my leaking air compressor/power steering pump sent from the classic center.

Some of these parts seem like they're only accessible when everything else is removed around them.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
james lawson
8/8/2016 10:18 AM
You know if the mounting of the pump at the front was not sealed, oil could leak into the valley under the pump.
If you don't mind going through the process of getting to the pump twice you might set everything right and see how it runs.
Just a thought[:)]
Jim

jim
GeraldK
8/8/2016 10:28 AM
quote:
Originally posted by james lawson

You know if the mounting of the pump at the front was not sealed, oil could leak into the valley under the pump.
If you don't mind going through the process of getting to the pump twice you might set everything right and see how it runs.
Just a thought[:)]
Jim

jim


That thought did cross my mind but I suspect its more than just a leak at the front of the pump. The sides of the pump are covered in oil as well. Getting at the pump twice was something that I was hoping to avoid.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
james lawson
8/8/2016 10:48 AM
Oh come on it's so much fun, and it's faster the second time[:)]
There is a banjo bolt on the right side that is connected to the engine oil. Also if the altitude sensor is not sealed oil will leak. The same goes for the oil filler pipe.
As a practical matter: if you know how it runs before a rebuild you have a base line to evaluate the rebuild.
Jim

jim
GeraldK
8/8/2016 1:08 PM
I think we have a different definition of fun!

I do agree taking it apart the second time would definitely be easier. It took weeks to get the frozen injection lines off the pump.

I'm still leaning towards there being a more significant leak on the pump than what you've described. Not sure if this attached picture is adequately shows the oil. You can see a fair bit on the side of the pump and there's definitely more underneath it.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
benzman70
8/8/2016 2:31 PM
Make sure it's 60 deg after ignition TDC of the # 1 cyl. Check your camshaft marks.
Art Love
8/8/2016 7:25 PM
It is very unlikely that oil grime on the sides of the pump is from the pump itself. These pumps leak oil internally, but there is not a source of external oil leak other than those already mentioned, and none of those require to removal of the pump.

When you reinstall the pump, it is important that you understand that it is securely held at the front by those four bolts. They must be done up securely before the two side brackets are tightened. This ensures the proper alignment of the pump drive. There are two versions of the side support brackets. The early version uses spacer washers which need to be installed after the pump is secure at the front. The second version uses a slotted vertical bracket. Either way, do not pull the pump down at the rear when doing up the side brackets.
Art
GeraldK
8/8/2016 8:33 PM
Art, you've got me reconsidering pulling the pump. I will check the oil feed on the side of the pump and the altitude sensor as mentioned. Does the altitude sensor just need to be tightened with a wrench?

I've read through some previous threads in this board and people reference a workshop manual. Is this still available? Last I spoke with the classic center they said it wasn't.

Inside the intake manifold there was a bit of an oil film. However looking down in to the cylinder head it didn't appear there was any oil in there. I've heard it's normal for there to be a little bit of oil inside the intake manifold but no idea if that's true.

I'll run out to the garage and grab a couple more pictures of the pump.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
GeraldK
8/8/2016 8:41 PM









Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
daantjie
8/8/2016 10:35 PM
Gerald looks like that pump spent some time in Vancouver? Company called Fred Holmes Fuel Injection, now based in Richmond BC.

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC
GeraldK
8/8/2016 11:20 PM
Daniel, you're correct it does have a sticker on it that it was services there. Would you have any idea if that's a reputable shop for working on these pumps?

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
james lawson
8/8/2016 11:52 PM
The manuals occasionally come up on eBay.
Renewing the subframe mounts and the engine mounts will help with working on the fuel filter and other components and replacing hoses as well improve the handling of the car.
Two more FUN jobs[:D]

jim
daantjie
8/9/2016 10:25 PM
quote:
Originally posted by GeraldK

Daniel, you're correct it does have a sticker on it that it was services there. Would you have any idea if that's a reputable shop for working on these pumps?

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB


Hey Gerald. No idea unfortunately. I checked out their website. Looks like they mostly do Marine pumps and heavy duty diesel pumps and such. Can't hurt to give them a call.
www.fhfuel.com

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC
Martin L
8/9/2016 10:38 PM
Hi Gerald, try this outfit for a workshop manual.


http://books4cars.com/listings.php?findmake=Mercedes&model=6.3&year=1970&type=Shop

300SEL 6.3 #6481
560SEL #435064 300HP Full hydro suspension
300SEL M189 #1296
CL55 AMG
daantjie
8/9/2016 11:12 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Martin L

Hi Gerald, try this outfit for a workshop manual.


http://books4cars.com/listings.php?findmake=Mercedes&model=6.3&year=1970&type=Shop

300SEL 6.3 #6481
560SEL #435064 300HP Full hydro suspension
300SEL M189 #1296
CL55 AMG


Yup I can vouch for books4cars. Top notch outfit.

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC
GeraldK
8/9/2016 11:29 PM
quote:
Originally posted by james lawson

The manuals occasionally come up on eBay.
Renewing the subframe mounts and the engine mounts will help with working on the fuel filter and other components and replacing hoses as well improve the handling of the car.
Two more FUN jobs[:D]

jim


How difficult are these jobs? I haven't looked in to this at all. I actually don't see myself getting the car on the road this year.

quote:
Originally posted by daantjie

Hey Gerald. No idea unfortunately. I checked out their website. Looks like they mostly do Marine pumps and heavy duty diesel pumps and such. Can't hurt to give them a call.
www.fhfuel.com

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC


I had noticed the same thing when I visited their website. I was mostly curious if they had a good reputation. It looks like I will follow Arts advice and leave the pump for now. I'll give it a good cleaning and then see I can trace any possible leaks.

quote:
Originally posted by Martin L

Hi Gerald, try this outfit for a workshop manual.


http://books4cars.com/listings.php?findmake=Mercedes&model=6.3&year=1970&type=Shop

300SEL 6.3 #6481
560SEL #435064 300HP Full hydro suspension
300SEL M189 #1296
CL55 AMG


Thanks Martin, I will check it out.

I'm getting closer to re-assembly as I received a parts shipment from the classic center today. I've got the hoses, belts, filters, fuel lines, oil lines, CSV o-rings sorted out. Is there anything else worthwhile to examine while I have access to the front of the engine with the radiator and AC condenser removed? Leave the water pump in place? Remove the alternator and have it tested?


Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
AgSilver
8/10/2016 3:12 AM
Here is the facility that has been rebuilding MFI's since the 50's. Jerry's grandson Robert now operates the company. Back in the 50's Jerry did all the work on our 1957 300SL, '58 300SL and '62 300SL. A common problem was the diaphragm. Most recently Robert did a complete rebuild of my M-100 MFI.

http://www.fuelinjectioncenter.com/



300SEL 6.3
E55 AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT
Art Love
8/10/2016 7:25 PM
Unless you plan to have the water pump rebuilt, there is no reason to remove it. There is really nothing in it which would deteriorate from just sitting and there are some potential serious issues if you do have to remove it and have it rebuilt which I shall not go into now. The alternator is easier to remove and less problematic to have tested and repaired if necessary. Just work out how the belt tensioner and support bracket work. I broke part of one some years ago by forcing it because I did not have the brains to see how it worked.

Dealing with the engine and subframe mounts are not too difficult IF you have the right equipment. The subframe mounts are pretty straight forward but you need either good quality and safe jacking or a hoist. The side engine mounts require some method of lifting and supporting the engine. I would not suggest replacing the rear engine mount [auto gearbox mount] without a hoist/lift - you don't want to be under the car doing that sort of thing on your own. Neither are a high priority in your case - they are something that you would consider getting done once the car is running and mobile. Getting access to other components which are better accessed with those mounts in good condition can also be achieved by judicious jacking of the body or motor. If you have a hoist, it may be a different discussion.
Art
GeraldK
8/10/2016 8:30 PM
Great, I'll leave the pump as is as then. I'll give some thought to the alternator. I will have to figure out the tensioner anyways to replace the belt.

How many belts are there supposed to be on the car? I ordered a set and there seems to be an extra one. I have two around the suspension compressor, one around the alternator and one around the AC compressor. It seems it's the extra one I received is the same same size as the one to the AC compressor. It does look like its a double pulley but unsure if there really should be a second belt there.

One more question regarding the ignition. I understand there's a safety switch mounted on the firewall. Will this allow the car to be started with the transmission in neutral? The bushing connecting the selector lever to the transmission disintegrated and now it's not connected.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
Art Love
8/10/2016 8:48 PM
Two belts on the AC compressor. The neutral safety switch allows the car to be started in Park or Neutral.
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