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6.3

New Owner/Member, #3324
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joeuserus
1/6/2016 1:25 AM
Hey everyone, recently purchased a 1970 with 67,000 miles on it without any knowledge of them. I've been reading a bunch of posts on the forum and I think I might have bitten off more than I can chew/afford. As far as I know the car had been stored for an extended period of time because it needed new air bags, but it sounds like it could be a lot more than just the bags.

The car looks nice but it really shows its age when you start to look closely. The interior is in good shape but the cream leather seats are dirty, possibly stained.

Where do most people go for their parts, new/used?? (Air bags, climate control levers)

Are there any service manuals or parts catalogs online??

Is there anything that needs to be changed/checked before driving it? I think I read something about a rubber line for the transmission cooler?


Thanks in advance!

....and a photo.

Jack English
1/6/2016 1:38 AM
Joe, it looks like it is down in the front, which is fixable. Stick with this forum and ask your questions as they come up. This is the best place to get the answers you need. NOTE: The annual convention is to be held in Portland, OR, in late August. This is a great place to learn and meet fellow enthusiasts. Hope you will attend.

Jack English
300SEL 6.3 #4768
joeuserus
1/6/2016 1:55 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Jack English

Joe, it looks like it is down in the front, which is fixable. Stick with this forum and ask your questions as they come up. This is the best place to get the answers you need. NOTE: The annual convention is to be held in Portland, OR, in late August. This is a great place to learn and meet fellow enthusiasts. Hope you will attend.

Jack English
300SEL 6.3 #4768


Portland would be just over 2600 Miles each way. Might have to wait and see where next years is held.
Art Love
1/6/2016 2:46 AM
Welcome. You must have had a reason to buy the car with "no knowledge of them". Why did the car need new air bags - they are extremely durable? Cleaning dirty leather is a very simple and cheap project if a bit tedious.

When you say it has been stored for an extended period, how long is that? If it is only a few years - 4-6, that should not be a problem. You should just siphon out or drain the old fuel if there is more than a very little in the tank and put in new fuel. If it has been sitting for more than two years, replacing the brake fluid would be wise. Same thing regarding the oil and coolant. None of these things are any more expensive than any other car. The ATF is pretty durable. If it has sat for 20 years, that is another matter.

Do you know why the previous owner stopped driving it? That is an important thing to know if it is available.

A lot of us get parts from the Classic Center in Irvine California. I believe that US style aircon levers are not currently available. I believe that the Classic Center has digital service and parts manuals and financial membership of this organization or other Daimler affiliated club also gives you access to the Daimler EPC [electronic parts catalogue].

Probably the most important thing to ensure works properly before you drive it is the brakes - two ton of car does not stop well if the brakes are bad. I'd be replacing brake hoses before worrying about transmission cooler hoses. Replacing fuel hoses is sensible unless you know that they have been replaced in the last 10-15 years. The return hose at the back of the engine is the one that is most likely to have not been replaced and a fuel leak there is a hazard. It is not the easiest hose to get to! Are you mechanically minded or have a mechanic? All these things are relevant with regard to what you can chew.

Art
karra
1/6/2016 4:33 AM
Welcome!

Art has good points. It is very helpful if you would know the history of the car. In my rescue topic there should be good information, I am not saying I did everything the absolutely right way but you get some idea.

http://www.m-100.co/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4307

And on this youtube-channel there is a lots of very basic information:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaIylfUj5z8&list=PLtRKk64pu2woOOe_OXXPu2clnNUDh7OtU&index=1


Kari Pykäläinen

1971 300 SEL 6.3 #5581
1974 450 SLC
1980 450 SEL 6.9 #7201
1987 560 SEC
1996 C180 A
1998 ML 320
1980 Stingray SV175 boat
http://suomi.mercedes-benz-clubs.com/
joeuserus
1/6/2016 11:32 AM
Thanks for the quick replies!

The friends I bought the car from don't really seem to know much about it. It sounds like it was a left over of their grandparents estate that had a collection of cars(40+). This was their grandmothers personal car and was registered under the family business since 1982. I found it under a heap of dust at the back of a warehouse while there to purchase a 2010 Subaru and just fell in love with it.

I believe the car has been stored indoors for the past 5-6 years. I was told they stopped driving it because of problems with the air suspension. That it was too expensive and too much work to fix. They said the air bags needed to be replaced.

There is a good chance it had a fuel stabilizer added considering how many cars they used to have. Is there a drain on the bottom of the tank? or will a hose go straight down the filler neck?

My knowledge of cars is limited mostly to early 90s Japanese 4 cylinders. The most I've done is upgrading head gaskets and a couple motor swaps. I hope to do the majority of the work at home in my garage. I would like to keep the car as original as possible, if affordable.

Thanks for the links Kari, I will check them out.

These are the controls that need to be replaced. They're too brittle to touch.

AndrewBooty
1/6/2016 11:44 AM
Welcome to the forum. I just purchased 3925 (1970 model as well), so it is exciting to have another fellow newbie. Happy to compare notes as I have had to do much work on my car to get it in good shape. Folks on this forum have been very helpful to that end.

Andrew

1962 Porsche 356
1965 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud III
1970 Mercedes 300SEL 6.3
1971 Mercedes 250C
1982 Mercedes 300D-T
1988 Porsche 911 Cabriolet
AndrewBooty
1/6/2016 11:52 AM
And sorry, to answer your questions, Neil at Star Motors in Endicott NY and Tom Hansen at the Mercedes Classic Center have been instrumental in supplying parts. If you have replaced a motor before, you should be able to tackle most issues that come up on the 6.3. Parts are pricey and clearances tight for some parts replacement, but all do-able. And in addition to what other parts others have recommended replacing, I would consider doing all of the radiator and heater hoses, as well as the thermostat and thermostat housing gasket. Some of the heater hose is just bulk, cut by you to fit. I would also replace the transmission cooler lines and power steering low pressure return hose, and the flexible brake lines going to each caliper. Unless this car was unusually well maintained prior to it being parked, these are all items that deserve to be changed every ten years or so. Lastly, grease all the grease nipples including those at the rear brakes and differential. If they are dry and you start to drive the car, noise and havoc can ensue...

Andrew
mpmorris
1/9/2016 5:02 PM
Ed --before driving the car, all rubber fuel hoses & fuel filter must be changed out --don't need a fire!---if the car hasn't been started, flush fuel pump, fuel tank, metal fuel feed and return pipes and fuel injection pump separately utilizing an auxiliary electric fuel pump. As Andrew stated all brake flex hoses should be replaced --will save you having to replace brake calipers and rotors due to brake drag -exercise the brake caliper pistons while you are at it -insure freedom of movement.

PS -on more than one occasion, I've had the fuel return tube at the fuel tank plug and have run a wire through to clear the passage --check this while you are doing the fuel system.
daantjie
1/9/2016 9:42 PM
Welcome to a fellow Canadian[:D]!
Unfortunately choices to buy classic Benz parts in Canada are very slim to none.
I buy some of my generic K Jet parts and such from www.autopartsway.ca. They have great service and ship free. But you will struggle to find any 6.3 parts on there.
So yes for us Canadians, the MB Classic Centre is pretty much the way to go. That and ebay.
Now with our dollar in the toilet this hobby is really going to bite hard in the pocket...
For air suspension support, contact Martin Werminghausen, he is the recognized expert on the Benz air suspension.

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC
Aaron H
1/11/2016 5:45 AM
Hi Ed. Regarding your ventilator slides, two of the four are currently available from Mercedes. The part numbers for each are as follows:

000-833-15-40 (not available right now)

000-833-16-40 Available

000-833-17-40 (not available right now)

000-833-18-40 Available

You're obviously wanting to stick to originality, but I'll mention this anyway. An aftermarket company, FEBI, makes these ventilator slides. They work well and are cosmetically correct on appearance, but the blue and smoke coloured levers are off on color....when the light up, that is. If you can live with that, then follow these links and you'll get all of what you need:

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W108-W109-250S-280SE-Right-Red-Heater-Sliding-Knob-FEBI-000-833-16-40-/151712759420?hash=item2352c8fe7c:g:IMEAAOSw~gRVsIrO&vxp=mtr[/url]

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W108-R109-280S-280SE-300SEL-Left-Heater-Sliding-Knob-Blue-Green-New-/170735027843?hash=item27c099c683:g:BSUAAMXQ9MVRiNwo&vxp=mtr[/url]

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-w108-65-73-Heater-Sliding-Knob-Gray-Right-GENUINE-w109-w111-w112-/351612387324?hash=item51ddbb3ffc:g:DA8AAOSwHPlWfOjl&vxp=mtr[/url]

[urlhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-w018-Heater-Sliding-adjust-Knob-LEFT-Red-w108-w109-108-109-/351438576373?hash=item51d35f1af5:g:Z7cAAOSwLVZVj4ZG&vxp=mtr][/url]

There are also some whole lever assemblies, both U.S. and Euro versions, on ebay at the moment, but the fool listing them is asking $500-$600 for them. A whole assembly is only worth about $100-$150 lately, so don't be suckered into paying more for these than they're worth. Don't get me wrong, a 6.3, or any W108/W109 chassis, isn't for the faint of heart. It's costly, but when it's all done, and everything is right, you'll have no regrets! :)

Regarding the air bellows, it's less expensive to buy them from Europe if you don't mind the wait. In fact, it's less expensive to buy most parts from Europe than it is here in the U.S. Just try to place large orders all at one time. Multiple orders will eat you up on shipping. Or, if you like the convenience of having the parts shipped to your front door within a week, then buy locally. Hope all of this helps somewhat. :)
joeuserus
1/11/2016 11:58 PM
Thanks for all the info guys. I found an old thermostat in a new parts box in the car so it looks like it's had some kind of recent maintenance.

Aaron thanks for the info on the sliders. The ones that are "not available right now", does that mean they're expected to be back in stock some time soon, not likely ever again, or no one knows?
Aaron H
1/12/2016 11:03 PM
Ed, it's a guessing game. I can't imagine something like these heater controls not being made again, as they're a "replace every 5-10 years" item. However, Mercedes has called it quits on a lot of necessary items lately. Their rule of thumb for parts is if it doesn't take the car off of the road, they won't give it much consideration. I'm sure they know that FEBI is making them, so that's even more reason for them not to make anymore of their own.

Another problem is that when they do re-manufacture a part to meet a demand, they jack the prices up double, triple, and often more than the part cost before it ran out of stock the first time....and not because it actually costs that much more to make the parts(s), but because they simply can.

In the next 5-10 years I imagine that 3D printing will have been perfected to a large degree, and if that happens, then Mercedes will probably exit out of the classic parts business for the most part. The future is definitely grim looking. But......if 3D printing takes hold then ownership and actual purchase costs will probably subside a great deal.

One last option I'll offer to you....I do this often for customers that are as picky as you and I are. Buy a set of the aftermarket FEBI heater slides, remove the rubber handles, and then transfer the rubber handles on to the original slides. The rubber part is only riveted on to the hard plastic part with brass rivets. It's a very simple job, and when you're done, it still looks like the originals. :)
mtrei
1/12/2016 11:36 PM
quote:
You're obviously wanting to stick to originality,


If we're putting on our originality police hats, I should point out that the radio is a late 1970s item. It "looks about right," but this car would more likely have come with a non-cassette radio.
joeuserus
1/13/2016 11:02 PM
Aaron do you just drill out the old rivets and then rivet the rubber onto the old plastic pieces?? Is it easy to find that rivet size?

Are all four handles the same?? Could I buy four of the cheaper red ones and use them for the blue and grey since they seem to be more expensive??

Late model radio huh?? That kind of reminds me, I think there are aftermarket speakers on the rear parcel shelf that don't look OEM. [:(][:(]
Aaron H
1/14/2016 12:03 PM
Hi Ed. No, all 4 handles are not the same. And yes, rivets that small are able to be sourced. Drilling the old ones out is one way, or you can file the head off of one side of them with a hand file.

While I, and many others, can appreciate your trying to be resourceful in wondering if it would be less expensive to buy all of one color (which would be soooo incorrect) I have to say that mindset is futile to your ownership experience and the cars well being. You cannot cheap out. It's immoral, and will cause you many headaches. "6.3" and "resourceful" just can't belong in the same sentence. ;)

Regarding your radio, Mike is correct. Though, many upgraded to a cassette type radio in the 1970's. If there is paperwork documenting the upgrade, which will match the radio's serial number to certain paper work and warranty cards, then that';s usually acceptable. If you do, in fact, have aftermarket speakers in the rear, then never fear. You can still buy original speakers and speaker grills. :)
joeuserus
1/14/2016 3:25 PM
I guess I didn't word that very well. What I meant was could I buy 4 of the red sliders, take off the rubber pieces, and rivet the new rubber pieces to the old blue and grey plastic part.
joeuserus
1/14/2016 4:58 PM
Snapped a pic of one of the rear speakers. Deff not OEM. Is the location at least original?? They didn't cut the shelf to add them??

Aaron H
1/14/2016 5:34 PM
Ah ok. In that case, yes. Buy four of the least expensive ones and transfer the rubber part over to the blue and smoke colored ones. The rubber parts are all the same.

Regarding your speakers, yes, they're in the correct location. However, the originals are a long oval shape, and the original grills were rectangular in shape, and I now worry that someone hacked out a larger round hole to allow these incorrect ones to fit. Even if this is true, all isn't lost, as a new parcel shelf can be cut and made to have the correct size holes.

I know the early 6.3's had a mono set up....meaning that there was only one speaker. It was located in the top center of the dash. Most of the late ones had stereo I think.....but may not all of them. My point here is if yours didn't have stereo from new, then for it's sake of originality put it back the way it was. If you have a fader knob on the dash, then it had stereo. If there isn't a fader, them it is a mono set up.

I'm not sure whether or not a stereo radio can be made to work in mono mode. Mike can comment on that much better than I. Though, I don't think it's possible given that the left and right channels are separate entities all their own.
AndrewBooty
1/14/2016 5:57 PM
Hi all

My 1970 has the original speaker in the dash, and as an extra cost option on the original invoice, a single rear speaker, rectangular in shape, in the center of the parcel shelf (and the speaker balance knob on the dash). I guess one could order dual rear speakers as well? If you do not have a balance knob on the dash, then your car probably just came with one speaker, and someone added both of those in the back.

Andrew
joeuserus
1/14/2016 6:11 PM
These are on the left and right. I'm starting to think the whole parcel shelf might be new/recovered.
Aaron H
1/14/2016 9:14 PM
Ed, does your 6.3 have a fader knob somewhere in the vicinity of the headlight switch on the wood part of the dash? The knob will have a little pictorial on it in white showing speakers.
mtrei
1/14/2016 11:00 PM
US market 6.3s typically came with a four band mono Grand Prix and a single speaker in the dash. Some later models were equipped with a two band Grand Prix stereo with four speakers and a fader.

The rear parcel shelf has perforations for three speakers, left center and right. A stereo equipped car has two rectangular speakers, not the same ones as the rear deck speakers, in the left kick panel under the hood release lever, and on the right side in the plastic shroud around the air conditioner fan.

You cannot drive two channels into a single speaker without creating a smoke machine.

Typical US market 6.3 radio.



Original rear shelf speakers look like this.



In this picture you can see the front right speaker mounted in the AC fan shroud.

hugin
1/15/2016 2:47 AM
My #335 has the fader to the left of the steering wheel, not sure how many speakers.
Too cold to go out and check in -25 C this morning.

1970 300SEL 6.3 #4509 Sold
1968 300SEL 6.3 #0335
1970 230 W114
1978 280E W123
joeuserus
1/15/2016 1:06 PM
No fader knob.
Aaron H
1/15/2016 1:15 PM
If there is no fader knob, then you have two choices. You can continue to have stereo (4 speakers), but you'll have to find a radio that is stereo, (the on in your car now is stereo). BUT.....you'll have to find a fader knob, a speaker wiring harness, and you'll have to buy four new speakers and speaker grills.

Second, you could delete everything and go back to the mono radio, which the car apparently had originally.

I think all of the late production U.S. 6.3's had stereo, but Mike is correct in saying that most were mono. What I find interesting is that you have what looks to be a late production 6.3, but it hasn't stereo. Then again, I've heard of people ordering late production 6.3's in which the specifically requested weird things like No Air conditioning, no leather, and in some cases, no stereo. Anything is possible I suppose.
mtrei
1/16/2016 12:38 AM
A picture of the front foot well area would give a lot more clues about what was fitted originally. It could well have been a stereo setup, just not with that radio.
Aaron H
1/16/2016 5:04 PM
Are you talking about the radio currently in the car, or the one that may have come with it? I doubt that the factory would have fitted speakers in the foot well areas if it wasn't meant to have stereo.
Art Love
1/16/2016 7:45 PM
I am following this thread with interest, but I can't help but think that we are losing the plot. Unless your plan is to sit in the car in your garage listening to the radio all day, I think it is largely irrelevant except that it and the centre speaker will need to come out in order to work on your climate control knobs. If this were my car, I would set up a list of priorities to get it running and then worry about the cosmetics. I guess the climate control is a lot more important in the USA than it is down here in the antipodes, but again, the heating and aircon won't work unless the car is running. Working on the climate control is a major undertaking compared to the fuel system, suspension, brakes and ignition. The pleasure of the 6.3 is in the driving - lesser cars have the same heater/aircon and radio.

Do you have access to a hoist where you can get under the car and have a look around? Do the brakes work? etc, etc. These things are much more important.
Art
Jack English
1/17/2016 12:09 AM
My car, # 4768, came with the stereo four speaker radio. I recently had the insides of the radio replaced with a modern electronic radio that retains the origina case and faceplate. This has the right to left and front to back balance on the right knob. No separate fader switch is needed.

Jack English
300SEL 6.3 #4768
joeuserus
1/17/2016 5:38 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Art Love

I am following this thread with interest, but I can't help but think that we are losing the plot. Unless your plan is to sit in the car in your garage listening to the radio all day, I think it is largely irrelevant except that it and the centre speaker will need to come out in order to work on your climate control knobs. If this were my car, I would set up a list of priorities to get it running and then worry about the cosmetics. I guess the climate control is a lot more important in the USA than it is down here in the antipodes, but again, the heating and aircon won't work unless the car is running. Working on the climate control is a major undertaking compared to the fuel system, suspension, brakes and ignition. The pleasure of the 6.3 is in the driving - lesser cars have the same heater/aircon and radio.

Do you have access to a hoist where you can get under the car and have a look around? Do the brakes work? etc, etc. These things are much more important.
Art


You're deff right Art but it's just a bit too cold to work on the car and not enough room to work on it without the garage door being open. So for now it's just figure out what I can. Order some parts and then once it's consistently above freezing make some room in the garage and then get the car up in the air.

As much as I'd like to return the stereo/speakers back to original, it more than likely wont happen anytime soon. I do still want to know what's been changed on the car though.
mtrei
1/17/2016 6:43 PM
quote:
Originally posted by joeuserus

[I do still want to know what's been changed on the car though.


Post some more pictures, and I'm sure the originality police will chime in.
joeuserus
7/10/2017 4:23 PM
Is there no coolant overflow tank on these cars?? The line from the rad cap just runs down beside the air filter box with nothing attached to it. Is there a tank underneath the fender panel??

Trying to google a part but nothing is coming up.
GeraldK
7/10/2017 5:10 PM
There is no overflow tank. Hose running down the side is normal.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
joeuserus
7/10/2017 5:19 PM
Thanks.
joeuserus
7/17/2017 10:23 PM
How loud is the fuel pump normally??

Should it prime when you turn the key over to the second position??

Is there a relay for the pump?? If it's not working does it usually end up being the pump itself??

I've got spark but wont fire up. Can't hear the pump from inside the car. Fuse is good.
AgSilver
7/17/2017 11:39 PM
quote:
Originally posted by joeuserus

How loud is the fuel pump normally??

Should it prime when you turn the key over to the second position??

Is there a relay for the pump?? If it's not working does it usually end up being the pump itself??

I've got spark but wont fire up. Can't hear the pump from inside the car. Fuse is good.


You should definitely hear the pump from outside the auto listening at the left rear wheel. Yes there is a relay, but the pump usually fails before the relay.

Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Niederheimbach, Germany
300SEL 6.3
E55K AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4 Gone
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT
GeraldK
7/18/2017 12:05 AM
I'm only familiar with the early long body pump, I'm not sure if you would have the same or the later short body pump. I don't think you can hear the pumps from inside the car but can definitely hear it from the outside next to left rear wheel.

The pump should turn on with the ignition in the second position. I'm not sure if there is a relay or not. I'm sure one of our other members are more familiar with this and will provide an answer.

I believe a common problem with a car that has been sitting for a long time is the impeller of the pump gets varnished up and seizes. I had this same issue on my pump. Usually fairly easy to fix.

If you can't hear the pump I would do a quick voltage check at the pump to make sure it's not a wiring issue before attempting to open up the pump.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
joeuserus
7/25/2017 3:21 PM
Finally had a second person to help, can't hear the pump turn on at all while under the car, even while cranking.

It has 10 volts on the multi-meter with the key in the second position then drops to 6 volts while cranking.

Is the fuel tank going to empty when I tank the fuel pump off??

Is there a rebuild kit out there for it?

1970 300SEL 6.3
joeuserus
7/25/2017 3:38 PM
I think I have the newer small style pump but not 100% sure. Is there an easy way to tell them apart?

1970 300SEL 6.3
GeraldK
7/25/2017 3:55 PM
It's possible that the impeller could just be stuck. I may recall some people recommending hitting the pump with a rubber hammer and it could loosen it up. I'd wait for someone else to confirm this before trying.

The tank will drain if you remove the pump. You just have to clamp off the feed hose to the pump.

Do you know which version (long or short body) pump you have?

I used the following instructions for rebuilding the long body pump. If you have this pump pay careful attention to part about the woodruff key.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/FuelPumpRebuildEarly

Another item to make note of is that those instructions mention 2 different o-ring sizes to seal the bellows to the shaft. I used the smaller size and I don't believe the bellows seals very well with it. After I completed my rebuild I came across an old thread on this forum where I believe Art Love mentions that you really need to use the larger o-ring. I also found that the o-ring sizes referenced for the outlet housings to be too thin. My pump leaked and I went up to the next thicker size.

There is no rebuild kit available for the long pump, however all the parts mention on that site are readily available.

They also have instructions for the rebuilding the short body pump.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Fuel/FuelPumpRebuildLater

I'm aware of this rebuild kit for the short pump.
https://mercedessource.com/store/1963-1973-short-bosch-mfi-electrical-fuel-pump-complete-resealing-kit-w-extras

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
AgSilver
7/29/2017 2:31 PM
If you desire peace-of-mind, and know you will always get home, put the Bosch pump in a box and install a modern, reliable gear-rotor pump.

Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Niederheimbach, Germany
300SEL 6.3
E55K AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4 Gone
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT
joeuserus
7/30/2017 1:05 PM
Not sure how I feel about jumping through the hoops of finding the right pump, bracket, psi/regulator, fittings of an aftermarket pump.

1970 300SEL 6.3
Gene Krejci
11/29/2023 10:05 PM

If anybody is ever scouring the Internet trying to find a modern fuel pump for your Mercedes Bosch MFI system, this model is a perfect replacement. Pump ratings are just advertising. The curve charts are the real deal. This Holley hits 20PSI at 4.5 amps and has plenty of gph flow at that pressure. I didn't need to change the fuse or wiring, and I didn't need to add a pressure regulator. It self primes. You'll need 90 degree hose barbs if you want to mount it on the original M6 studs under the body. I'm done with the short style Bosch fuel pump. I concede my originality prize at the concours. I'll place my free Holley sticker across the windshield, maybe.


Holley Electric In-Line Fuel Pump

HLY-12-920

Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Line, External, 80 gph, 60 psi, 12V

AgSilver
7/31/2017 1:22 AM
I have an older version of this Mallory pump. This pump incorporates an adjustable pressure regulator and an external bypass. Connect a tee to the pump bypass; connect the MFI pump return to one side of the tee and the return line to the fuel tank to the other side; connect the inlet and outlet line accordingly and know your fuel pump problems are over. The Mallory mounting bracket magically aligns with the original fuel pump mounting points. Easy installation and a complete rebuild kit (which you may never need) includes brushes, bearing, seal, screen and gasket is $50.











Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Niederheimbach, Germany
300SEL 6.3
E55K AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4 Gone
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT
joeuserus
7/31/2017 12:48 PM
Thx for the info and pics. I think I'll try a rebuild first and keep the pump as a possibility.

1970 300SEL 6.3
joeuserus
8/14/2017 4:05 PM
Pulled the old pump off. Been worked on before. One of the studs holding the lower plate on is broken. Sprayed it up with penetrating fluid for now.


Does anyone know what colour wire is power/ground for the pump??


Who do you talk to to get access to the members section??

1970 300SEL 6.3
GeraldK
8/14/2017 5:22 PM
quote:
Originally posted by joeuserus

Pulled the old pump off. Been worked on before. One of the studs holding the lower plate on is broken. Sprayed it up with penetrating fluid for now.


Does anyone know what colour wire is power/ground for the pump??


Who do you talk to to get access to the members section??

1970 300SEL 6.3


The ground wire should be a brown wire. I believe the power wire on my car is white with a black stripe.

You need to be a paying member to get access to the members section.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
joeuserus
8/14/2017 6:51 PM
quote:
Originally posted by GeraldK

quote:
Originally posted by joeuserus

Pulled the old pump off. Been worked on before. One of the studs holding the lower plate on is broken. Sprayed it up with penetrating fluid for now.


Does anyone know what colour wire is power/ground for the pump??


Who do you talk to to get access to the members section??

1970 300SEL 6.3


The ground wire should be a brown wire. I believe the power wire on my car is white with a black stripe.

You need to be a paying member to get access to the members section.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB


Okay ground was brown, but power looked to be black.

I emailed about paying but no one has got back to me... [:(]

1970 300SEL 6.3
Art Love
8/14/2017 10:39 PM
That is no good. I presume that you followed the instructions on the JOIN page on the HOME page. Did you send a payment to Jack? If so, you should have access. How long have you waited? I'll try to help.
Art
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