6.3

Do any of the hinges or the wire pulling mechanism on the control need to have any silicone grease?  I am about to put the stuff together so wanted to confirm.

I've always maintained computer games are helpful. Align this, open that, stand there and a power is achieved!

300SEL 6.3 #2723, my first classic Benz 3.5 #8659, my second. 2 to go...

Finally figured out how to open the brass wire holder.  I was looking at some control pictures on the site and noticed some critically placed openings and then it hit me that if, like Indiana Jones I align the disks at a certain angle, I would be able to see the top screw holding the brass wire lock.

Ok so I was able to remove the handles, access the controls, take the clips holding the wires off.  The place I am stuck is undoing the cable from the two brass screws on the red discs.   When I try to unscrew, the whole brass unit moves and pulls the cable.  Once I am able to undo the brass screws I can pull the unit.  Guidance will be helpful.  Thanks in advance.

Thank you!  Are these rubber knobs still available?

You have to pull it off to remove the controls from dash. 
On my car the knobs where harden due to time and sunshine. You may try to put some lube/oil inside from the back to make it came off easier. I had to lube it and twist it left-right a lot to make the hole bigger and let it off.

Please see the picture of controls without the knobs.



300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)
300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hope all of you are doing well and in good spirits with some real nice "spirits". Can some suggest on how to remove the black knobs from the controls?  I tried pulling but them they did not budge so left them alone.  Is it possible to slide the knobs through the silver face plate, this way I can pull the knobs off once I have the control unit ou.

I wish I hadnt put in the window glass yet...was much easier to access the dashboard area from above.
I guess most of you know how to wrench your body to get access to those parts of the car through the glove box or the loudspeaker hole etc.. What a wonderful posture; I closed my garage door to be on the safe side avoiding too much applause of the people strolling along...[:o)].
The problem with thick fingers remains. I let the car on Sat alone after some unsuccesful attempts!
As long as I have alternatives, no problem. On Sun I exchanged the rubbers for the brake support to the carriage, that worked well and is much more important for driving than this heating stuff. There is no plan to ride the car in winter anyway! In every case the tunnel will get warm whilst driving that has to be sufficient.[^]

300 SEL 6.3 3478+5327
Oliver

Ollie,

If your car has the 6 bowden cables, unfortunately you will have to disconnect from the CONTROLS. For 2 of the cables run through the heater box it-self and cannot be reached without the heater box being removed. You may have to remove radio, dash speaker, glove box etc etc to allow access to the control mechanism. IT IS A P.I.T.A. job. But can be done. From experience, when it gets too hard, walk away and come back and do it tommorrow[;)]

C.T.

P.S. No bettery no blower??? There is a plug that is connected to the heater box that runs the blower. You can "hot wire" it to make sure the blower works.

1959 220SE Ponton #9500929
1969 300SEL 6.3 (to be AMG 6.8 replica) #1268
1971 300SEL 6.3 #5713
1970 600 SWB #1692
1987 230E
1988 300E
1993 300E-24

leave them on the control, it's easier to undo them from the heater and then pull the whole thing out through the glove box hole. undo them at the heater end. You can buy new cables so if they have rusted,just cut them off the heater end first .

quote:

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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Hello Craig,all correct what you mentioned, thank you.
Tom, 1000 thanks to you for an ultra quick delivery. Now I know what my dilemma is, seeing how the new parts look alike...[xx(]
Any (special) tip how to loosen the 6 bowden cable at the control unit? How I wish I would have smaller fingers.....[:(!]
Regrettably I have not heard any noise from the blower motor so far, hope its only because of the lacking battery.....[}:)]

300 SEL 6.3 3478+5327
Oliver

Thats why I gave them to him...[:o)][:o)][:o)][:o)]

quote:

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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Olie,

There are 2 (probably 3 or 444444444 Mk12) versions of heater controls. They are both used with or without factory air-con!!!!!!

THE AIR CONDITIONING HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE HEATING AND VENTILATION CONTROLS!!!! It is a totally seperate system to the ventilation. (how many 6.3's, 3.5's, 108's and 109's were deliverd with no air-con ex factory?..............lots)

It dependes on what type of heater box was fitted in the car when manufactured. Most cars had 6 bowden cables and the "swedish" (read OPTION CODE ???) and later Australian versions had 4. I think it was called the scandinavian heater box. And, applied over the 108/9 range. [:I]

I would think your car, being a US verision would have the "standard" 6 cable set up. Check your data card. So the discs would be/should be readily available from Tom. Both in "soft" and "hard" form. Having said that Panik, the "4 bowden cable" disc's are hard to find .[;)]

Regards C.T.

1959 220SE Ponton #9500929
1969 300SEL 6.3 (to be AMG 6.8 replica) #1268
1971 300SEL 6.3 #5713
1970 600 SWB #1692
1987 230E
1988 300E
1993 300E-24

Swap the entire control mech over with a european version. just make sure you get the air con version ,which as panik has shown are completely different. The air con version has two less cables but will bolt in. remove the glove box and center speaker to access it. There are two 10 mm bolts behind the chrome face piece which hold the whole thing into the dash.
I prefer to undo the cables at the top rather than scramble under the dash . Now is also the time to make sure the cables are moving freely.

quote:

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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Hm, picture would maybe help....
It loooks somehow different to what I would expect....
I try to get in contact with Tom!

300 SEL 6.3 3478+5327
Oliver

Not sure how simple that is to do. I suspect a dog of a job. I can't help with the part number for those US knobs because they are US specific. One of the US members will have to help. You could also ask Tom Hanson because he will know P&A of the US stuff.

Art

The US versions have soft switches which are designed to break off in an accident but tend to fall off in everyday use. it would be better to replace them with the standard versions.

quote:

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

---

Hello,
is there someone here who can tell me which heater knobs/discs I need for my late US-model? Seems they got lost in the parts puzzle over the years![}:)]Thank you. Car with Behr Klima.





300 SEL 6.3 3478+5327
Oliver

I have to do my own now ,as the taps are stuck on . my car had a tap installed in the line by a previous owner to stop the flow and that all corroded .i removed all that and fitted new hoses when i rebuilt the injection. But now i have full flow of hot water and 30C daytime temps...[:D][:D]

quote:

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

---

As promised, here are the pictures of the complete and cleaned up heater controls for the Heavy Duty type of heater, this the heater type where the heater taps are at the bottom of the box behind the trimed panel ahead of the gear lever and there are only four cables not six.
Thanks to Ron B for suppling the replacement part from his stach.







I did remove the taps and polished them up because they were jamed up, I had to use a slide hammer to get them out and I replaced to O rings as well.

Once again, I would like to thank everyone for their help.

cheers

Peter

1969 W108 280S
1971 W109 300SEL 3.5
1972 W108 280SE 3.5
1996 W210 E320 Elegance
2003 VW B5.5 Passat 1.8T (wifemobile)