600

Hi Art,
I hope you are doing well since …

No need for apologies .. because the basics for the airsuspension from the 6.3 and the 600 are the same, except for the additional brakebooster-compartment in the 600 and its priority …

Sorry, I have been in hospital and missed most of this discussion.  Soft timber makes a good pad as the steel will shape it.  Support as near as practical to the original jack points.  Securing the vehicle on the trailer before transport will be critical.  My apologies for forgetting where the Schraeder valve was in the car.  Never needed to use it myself in 30 years of ownership - now relying on defective memory!
Art 

I spoke to the classic center today and they said they can make the hard line, but they need the length.
It comes straight and I have to bend it.

For the emergency supports, can I just use a straight steel rod?
if yes, what the dimensions?
I dont need to drive it, just get it onto a trailer.

For lifting on the car lift, am I just making some pads that have a crease down the middle to allow the body line to fit into it, and put the jack pads close to where the external jack holes are located?  given the weight, just want to be careful.

You also could try to get a flexible (plastic) line as replace, which are also used for the return exhaust-airline from behind …

try to unmount the defective lines possibly unbent, it makes the job a lot easier when trying to shape the new line out of the car.
The squared o-rings are very expensive, in case you are in the US then buy them as high quality with much better price from Martin Werminghausen.

Emergency supports:
Thats how they look like (+ a nut for the thread)

Metal lines are basic metric lines, but with odd flaring compared to what a US car would have. Modern versions of the lines are coated for long term survival. The classic center there in CA should have them available cut to the correct length and correctly flared.  Save the fittings you cut off for posterity (or in case you have to get a shop to flare the line for you at some point).

The o-rings in the various fittings have a square cross-section. That's just unique to the MB cars and are also a classic center item. 

I have used 2x3's to prop up the deflated air suspension as well as layers of cut up tires.  Basically whatever you have handy that can handle a few tons (not much does). I have a 300sel in the garage that has two pieces of muffler pipe between the rear axle and the body to keep the ride height. That works on a trailer, but little else.

-CTH

I put air into #1 inlet and it turns out I have a hard line leak.  

From the drivers side the lines go down into the frame and exit the frame and then go to the rear of the car.

The main leak appears to be near where the lines enter the frame.

I can feel the air coming out as my coworker pushed air into inlet #1.

There is also a small leak at one of the fittings after it exits the car.

So two questions.

Can I fabricate front suspension supports so I can transport the car for repair? Looks like a steel rod would do, does it need to be adjustable?

Second Question

Is making hard lines covered in the forum? Or is there someone who has these?

to add some details:
the fillvalve is mounted to the pressure regulator, which itself is mounted to the pressure tank.This tank has
two chambers for the brake system and the air suspension.
The pressure regulator prioritizes in a way that all the air is routed to the brake pressure tank unless the 
pressure exceeds 10,5bar (150psi).
Only from this point on the air suspension gets air. 
The pressure regulator keeps the air compressor working in a way that the system pressure stays between 13,5 and 16,5bar.
And the main valve is adjusted in a way that the front axle gets 13bar (190psi)

So a 140psi compressor will never raise the car when attached to the fill valve.
It might raise the car when attached to port 1 or Port D of the main valve.
You will need something between 140psi and 190psi (depending on the weight of the car)
and the absense of major leaks.

regards,
Thomas

"I did notice that the brake light was on as well as the ride height light, and I hear hissing near the brake booster or somewhere underneath the brake booster when I turn off the car"

could indicate you have a "cracked" brakebooster.  

One might think that the hissing sound is from all the money departing your wallet while being attached to the car.  If it's really loud, you have a leak in a bag or one of the flexible hoses (or metal line ruptured, which only happens on the kind of rusty cars I play with). -CTH

Air Compressor at 140 did not raise the front of the car (back blocks are in place).
I did notice that the brake light was on as well as the ride height light, and I hear hissing near the brake booster or somewhere underneath the brake booster when I turn off the car.

I will try to connect the compressor directly to port 1 of the main valve as directed.

When I remember right the left button is for the ridehight, which got a "rest" in the middle position.

An other methode is to connect the compressor to the mainvalve directly and bypassing the airtank/regulation …
Connect the compressor directly to port 1 (one) of the mainvalve … OR  via the connection of the unscrewed sensor for the warninglight.

I always get confused about the two knobs by my left knee when sitting in the car.
Which one am I pulling out all the way before trying to inflate the car via the air compressor?

And it sounds like I should have the car running before trying to inflate.

"Is the connector just a standard connector that will fill a tire?"
Yes, it is the same as for filling your tire.

Fill your airpressure tank as far as you can an see what happens ; it might be the car raises
But I believe you need at least 175 psi from your compressor for a 600

Be aware that the hight button is NOT in the middle position for filling ….
Try simply out if 140 psi is enough to raise your car …

Yes, its on its knees, Its been sitting for a very long time.  Context is I was wanting to move it before I drain the gas tank, other fluids, and such.  Air bags were fine before long term storage.
I found the fill nipple in the engine compartment, is the connector just a standard connector that will fill a tire?
My air compressor does go to 140 and is a large tank.  I kicks off at 140 and kicks on at 120.

The fill nipple is on the pressuretank for the 6.3 but NOT on the 600 cars.
That shraeder valve you will find in the motorcompartment, where the regulation is for the priority of the brake-compartment before it enters the pressure tank .The required pressure is imho around at least 13 bar.

Start the car and put the airco on with the high revolution button out (that will prevent the car falling in the reverse-gear …. and damage the the car when it gets rolling ...) the car will pump up even if there is a smaller leak in the system .

I am presuming that the car is down on its knees and the motor does not run.  The emergency kit does not raise the car, it just keeps it up.  Unless the airbags are shot, you can pump the car up.  However, this requires the use of a compressor which can deliver higher pressures than the usual "Home Depot" type that most people have.  As best I recall off the top of my head, you need about 140psi; I am open to correction.  You connect the compressor to the Schraeder valve on the air reservoir under the front fender.
Art

Hi All

I am working to get my 1969 600 SWB back on the road after years of sitting, and I need to get the air suspension back into working order.
Step 1 was to use the air suspension kit provided within the spare tire to raise the car.
Unfortunately, my car does not have the parts for the front suspension.

Are these parts available anywhere, or is there a way to raise the car without the original rods and rubber bumpers?  I do have the back suspension blocks.

Thanks in advance

Jay Brown
Clayton California USA