6.3

quote:

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Originally posted by mpmorris

Charles reminded me of a 190SL instance from years ago --I had the car in the shop for a transmission reseal --put the car back together and cranked it over --it backfired through the carburetors as they typically will do and one of the guys hollered 'fire in the hole' -the engine oil was so diluted with fuel that it ignited internally --fire was coming out of the side cover seam.
mpm

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Ha ha, that happened to me recently. A Djet M116 . It wouldn't run on 8 so I did a compression test,all was OK. Then I checked the injector flows using jars to hold the injectors but as soon as i turned on the ignition the 4 and 8 injectors were flowing fuel . I swapped in a pair of good used ones,reassembled everything and started the engine. there appeared to be oil leaking from the gauge connection on the rear of the left head, but it looked like water ...strange i thought,where would the coolant becoming from. Next thing i know it's alight as it poured onto the hot exhaust manifold . I put it out quickly but a check of the oil revealed it to full of fuel from the two leaking injectors .No wonder the starter sounded strange as it cranked, it must have almost hydraulic ed every time it was run.

One more thing before I start drilling, does anyone have any idea if the stud, once tightened, sits higher than the water body or does it touch it. Just want to make sure I do not drill where no drill has gone before.....[:0]

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

"Best Wishes for the Christmas to all" Lets start off a dark situation with some holiday wishes ....[:D]

Well the damn thing does not want to budge, even the screw extractor is on biting. The stud just is breaking off with each bite. I also noticed that it has a sleeve in there so looks like someone in the past has had a go at it. I guess my next option is to drill out the remaining stud and the hole. Does anyone one know what size of Heli Coil to buy for this adventure?

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

At this point it's balls to the wall time yes. I think your plan is sound, take it slow, don't rush, and good luck[;)]

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC

I sheered it off, well lt didn’t take much Force. This being my first such incident I am "devastated "[:o)] [B)]. Here is what I am planning, please feel free to blow holes in the plan if you feel I am on the wrong path or if you know of a safer method I would love to hear it

Using a right angle drive on electric drill
A) Start off with a small left hand drill fitted into a self centering bit holder
B) enlarge the gold to about 3mm
C) Use a steel screw extractor

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

Well I got the stud, so the orig. part number 000835 008066 has been replaced by 000835-008165. These studs have a hole on the top thread, looks like MB is using studs that are used in a location that requires lock pins. And they are EXPENSIVE $26 a piece ouch!

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

quote:

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Originally posted by Art Love

As I read the Parts Manual, the upper studs of the inlet manifold are longer than the lower ones, so it depends which one you snapped. The longer upper ones are part number 000835 008066 and the shorter lower ones are part number 000835 008065.
Art

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Perfect, That is exactly what I am looking for. I need the upper studs.[:D]

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

As I read the Parts Manual, the upper studs of the inlet manifold are longer than the lower ones, so it depends which one you snapped. The longer upper ones are part number 000835 008066 and the shorter lower ones are part number 000835 008065.
Art

Charles reminded me of a 190SL instance from years ago --I had the car in the shop for a transmission reseal --put the car back together and cranked it over --it backfired through the carburetors as they typically will do and one of the guys hollered 'fire in the hole' -the engine oil was so diluted with fuel that it ignited internally --fire was coming out of the side cover seam.
mpm

Ugh that sucks, we've all been there[xx(] Can you maybe cut a slot in the protruding part with a Dremel tool, and then use a flat bladed tool to rotate? before you try this make sure you heat the bolt and let cool through multiple cycles, then soak with PB Blaster. This trick is a bit risky as you risk taking off more of the workable top of the bolt, so proceed with caution. If you have room you can try an "easy out" but this is also risky. Tough choices ahead, good luck!

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC

Thanks CTH350.

Anyone know the part number or stud details, I had sent an email to Tom at Classic Center and he is asking me for stud specs as he does not have any information on the type of stud that goes in.

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

how about "take the manifold back off, gingerly butt weld a piece of rod to it" the result should be long enough for a conventional stud puller.

You might discover that a large pair of lineman's pliers is capable of gripping it and screwing it out after you apply a fair amount of heat to it.

-CTH
PS. Either way, don't let gas catch fire. That would certainly make things worse.

Guys I was tightening the nut on the intake manifold and the top threaded section of the stud sheared off at 20NM of torque. I have the smooth area still protruding out, what would be the best way to get the stud out without causing any more disaster. I was thinking of using a left hand thread die to cut some left hand thread and try to unscrew the stud that way. Help needed!!

There cars and then there are BABIES!
1969 Euro Model
10901812000931

I do not. I bought the car that donated this engine from a salvage auction. It was also a 69 Euro. The back half of the car was burnt from what appeared to be a fire at the fuel pump.

The pre-accident condition of the car was fantastic, engine looked super clean, air valves and are bags were in great shape, but I never heard it run.

I pulled the cam over off and it appears that the head has been off in the past by markings on the head bolts and the super clean condition of everything inside.

I'm hoping that the engine is good, we'll find out when the engine is plumbed back in.

With best regards

Al

Al - - -

Are you certain as to the overall condition of this engine?

Steve

Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Niederheimbach, Germany
300SEL 6.3
E55K AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4 Gone
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT

Thanks Gary. I'm learning this motor, I was hoping to have it running already but you know what they say about all good plans.



With best regards

Al

Sorry Al, That's cylinders 6 and 8 on the driver's side, hit the wrong key !

Al,
The bottom studs on cylinders 1 and 3 on the pass side, and the bottom studs on cylinders 5 and 8 on the driver's side are the ones that go into the water jackets on the original castings. But it's possible that at some point if they broke off before someone could have drilled thru on other cylinders. I use Time-Serts for any thread repairs. Gary

Thanks, I suspect that the stuck bolts are ones that have already penetrated the water jacket in the past. The engine has had recent head work and is super clean under the cam covers. I'm going to refrain from pulling the heads and just drill the studs out and put it back the way it was.



With best regards

Al

If my memory is correct, these studs frequently penetrate the water jacket, some routinely. It is a good reason why they are dogs to get out. I have an engine Parts Manual but you will need to be a lot more specific. As a minimum, you will need a top end gasket kit.
Art